The Science Behind Perfect Curls: Understanding Hair Structure Relationship to Styling

Hair (Dear) Diary,

The journey to understanding curly hair and achieving perfect curls is an intricate dance between nature and science. I'm taking you on a deep dive into the underlying principles. Beginning at the foundation with hair structure, then recognizing the diverse types of curls and the variables that make them unique. I believe the impact of external factors like humidity, your daily lived in atmosphere and chemicals, will take us to the finish line by gaining insights into maintaining and enhancing our natural curls. This exploration is not based in vanity; it’s about embracing the unique beauty of the fabric of curls.

Hair Structure: The Foundation of Curls

At the heart of every curl lies the hair strand's structure, primarily composed of a protein called keratin. Keratin proteins are organized in a fibrous structure, making hair strong and resilient. For textured hair, the shape of the hair follicle is what determines the actual curl pattern. Genetics, passed on from the ethnicities of our ancestors, have a lottery to determine which combination we get. Our curl formation comes from our DNA. Oval-shaped follicles produce curly hair, while round follicles generate straight hair.

In addition to the follicle shape, disulfide bonds—chemical bonds formed between sulfur atoms in the amino acid cysteine—significantly influence hair's curvature. The more disulfide bonds a strand has, the curlier it becomes. These bonds create a specific pattern that defines your curl type, and manipulating these bonds through various methods allows for alteration of curl patterns, which leads us to the next topic.

Types of Curls: A Spectrum of Beauty

Curls come in a diverse array of patterns, each with its unique charm. The most commonly used classification system is André Walker's hair typing system, which categorizes curls into four types:

- Type 1: Straight

- Type 2: Wavy

- Type 3: Curly

- Type 4: Coily

Each type then has subcategories (A, B, and C) based on the diameter and tightness of the curls.

- Type A: Slightly

- Type 2: Normal / Standard

- Type 3: Very

For example, Type 3A - Slightly Curly, encompasses loose, large curls resembling a corkscrew, while Type 3C - Very Curly, curls are tight and springy. Understanding your curl type helps in selecting the right products and techniques to enhance and maintain the natural curl pattern effectively. Variables contribute to having unique difference between persons having the curl type. This is where a Hair Analysis comes in- Individual strand thickness, density, porosity, elasticity etc. A professional Textured Hair Care Provider can assist in personalizing your hair profile.

Role of Humidity: The Frizz Factor

Humidity can be both a friend and foe to curly hair. When the air is humid, moisture enters the hair shaft, causing it to swell and potentially distort the natural curl pattern. While some may experience enhanced curls, others face the perennial battle against frizz.

This phenomenon occurs because the hydrogen bonds in hair are temporarily broken and reformed with the water molecules from the air. Curly hair is particularly prone to this because its texture and shape make it more challenging for the natural oils from the scalp to travel down the hair shaft. Causing dryness and making it easier for environmental moisture to penetrate.

This is where Textured Hair Care Providers emphasize completely drying your curl set before manipulation. When the hair is dried, the cuticles are closed, this mechanism prevents H2O molecules from going in and out. It's important to saturate your hair with moisturizers when wet, so it has all the nourishment it needs, then let it completely dry. Another time this shows up is when we sweat, hence exercising with textured hair presents a challenge. The moisture from sweat re-opens the cuticle gate and the curl pattern of the previously dried set.

Chemical Processes: Perms and Relaxers

For years, people have turned to chemical processes like perms and relaxers to alter their texture. A perm (short for permanent wave) involves using chemicals to break the original disulfide bonds in the hair, then reforming them around curling rods to create a new curl. This process involves applying a waving lotion that breaks the keratin's bonds and then neutralizing it to lock in the new shape.

On the other hand, relaxers use strong alkaline chemicals to break down the hair's structure, removing the curl pattern to a straighter finish. Texturizers has a similar formula to a relaxer but without the lye, this allows texturizers to elongate curls rather than removing the pattern all together. Keratin treatments, Hair Botox and Asian straighteners alter the cuticle layers and some, depending on the chemical formulation, can alter the cortex. Ammino Acid protein that are used in protein blow-drys help the cuticles to lay flatter allowing for a smoother finish.

On a 1-10 Spectrum, this is how i would rate the level of texture alteration:

1. Natural hair texture

2.  

3. Protein Blow-dry

4. Hair Botox

5. Keratin

6. Texturizer

7. Asian Straighteners

8. Relaxer

9. Permanent Wave (reformed curl)

10. Damaged hair

These chemical processes can significantly alter hair structure and do come with the risk of damage if not done correctly. The chemicals involved essentially weaken the hair by dissolving internal bonds to alter your texture, making it more prone to breakage and loss of elasticity over time. Thus, it's vital to approach these treatments with caution and ensure proper aftercare.

Heat Styling: Shaping Curls with Caution

Heat styling is another popular method to manipulate curl patterns. Tools like curling irons, flat irons, and blow dryers use heat to alter the hydrogen bonds in the hair temporarily. These bonds are weaker and less permanent than disulfide bonds, explaining why heat-styled curls can revert to their natural state with moisture or washing.

While effective, excessive heat can damage the hair's protein structure, leading to dryness, brittleness, and split ends. To minimize damage, it's crucial to use heat protectant products that form a barrier between the hair and the heat source, reducing the risk of protein breakdown and moisture loss.

Be mindful of the climate of where you live. If your atmosphere is prone to humidity, it may not be wise to use heat styling as a technique to straighten your curls daily. The hair will be stretched and will have heat damage over time. This can be seen often with natural leave outs with sew-in extensions. The natural hair that were in cornrows have one curl pattern and the leave out is heat damaged, having another pattern (if any at all). Consider more permanent texture alteration methods based on your desired look.

Products and Ingredients: The Science of Curl Enhancement

Selecting the right products can make a world of difference for curly hair. Ingredients that mimic the hair's natural moisture and support the curl structure are particularly beneficial. Humectants like glycerin and aloe vera attract moisture. Proteins like keratin and silk protein help strengthen and repair the hair shaft.

Polyquaterniums, a group of conditioning agents, provide slip and reduce static, making curls more manageable. Botanical oils like jojoba and sweet almond oil offer hydration and seal the cuticle, preventing moisture loss and maintaining curl definition. Understanding the science behind these ingredients can guide you in choosing formulations that enhance your specific curl type.

Other categories of ingredients that support the health and vitality of textured hair are Emollients, Biotin, Ceramides, Moisturizing Alcohols, Panthenol etc. These ingredients work together to attract and retain moisture, soften the hair, strengthen the hair shaft, and provide nourishment. The specific combination and proportions can vary depending on the product type and intended use.